Saturday, March 15, 2014

Guides choice hares ear


Materials Needed:
Hook  1x long nymph hook.  I'm using a size #16.
Thread  Orange 8/0 Uni thread.
Bead  Tungsten bead sized to your hook.  I'm using a 2mm bead.
Tail  Hares mask fibers.
Rib  Gold wire or tinsel.
Body  Underfur mixed with longer guard hair from a hares mask.
Thorax  2 strands of peacock herl.
Flashback  Pearl tinsel.
Hackle  Hungarian partridge, sized to the hook.  Mine is dyed olive.

Start by putting your bead on your hook and you can optionally add 10 or so wraps of lead wire.










Start your thread just behind the lead wraps.











Wrap your thread across the lead wraps to secure them in place.  Then wrap your thread back to your tie in point for your tail.









Cut an even bunch of fibers from a hares mask.  I like to get my tail fibers from the middle of the hares mask.










Tie in your rib.












Dub a small amount of dubbing onto your thread.  Be careful not to use too much.















Wrap your dubbed thread forward to build a nice tapered body.











Using a brush, or piece of velcro, tease out the body fibers to give it an extra buggy look.










Wrap your rib forward and tie it off with your thread.

Tease out the fibers again.









Tie in some pearl tinsel for your flashback.











Tie in 1 or 2 strands of peacock herl.













..and wrap the peacock forward to build a thorax.











Fold your flashback over your thorax, tie it off, and trim.












Select a feather with fibers no longer than the hook shank.  Strip the fuzzy part from the bottom.

Grab the tip of the feather with hackle pliers and stroke back the fibers so they are standing on a 90 degree angle from the stem as shown.






Tie in the feather by the tip and trim.  The convex side of the feather should be facing up, and the concave side should be facing the shank of the hook.









Grab the stem with a hackle pliers, and wrap about 1 and a half wraps.












Pull the stem fairly tight, and secure the butt end with your thread.  Then trim the butt end of the hackle stem.

Stroke the hackle fibers back to seperate them all, then wrap a few tight wraps of thread.







Whip finish, trim your thread, and apply head cement.












Friday, February 21, 2014

Klinkhammer quill body blue wing olive


Materials needed:
Hook:  Curved shank thin wire hook.  I'm using a 206BL, size #16
Thread:  Olive 8/0
Body:  Olive peacock herl with all the fuzz stripped off.
Post:  White closed cell foam.  I'm using 2.5mm foam for my size #16 hook
Thorax:  Peacock herl
Hackle:  Medium dun dry fly hackle, one size larger than your hook.

 Put your hook in your vice.
Start your thread a little behind the hook eye.











Cut a piece of foam about half the width of the hook gap.  Cut the end of the foam on an angle so when you tie it in you don't add too much bulk
Tie in your foam post with 4-6 tight thread wraps.
Wrap a few wraps of thread in front of the post to help hold it in place, and wrap as many thread wraps that it takes to cover your tie in point completely with thread.  Make a nice smooth transition from the hook shank up to the foam post.
Wrap 5-6 wraps of thread around just the foam post.











Tie in your hackle parallel with the foam post so it stands up vertically as shown.
Tie in your olive dyed stripped peacock herl to about half-way down the hook gap.
Wrap the stripped peacock herl forward to build the body.
Wrap the herl up to the foam post.
Tie off the herl, and trim the butt end.
Apply some thin U.V. resin to the body to improve durability.
Tie in your natural peacock herl just behind the foam post.
Wrap the peacock herl forward with a few figure 8 wraps, and then tie it off with your thread.
Wrap your hackle around just the foam post 4-6 wraps.  Tie it off by wrapping your thread around the hackle and the post, locking the hackle in place.

Tie your thread off just behind the hook eye, and trim the butt end of your hackle.
Then whip finish, and trim your thread.
Trim the foam post.
You can optionally flip the fly over and put a drop of Zap-A-Gap on the hook eye, and let it seep into the thorax/hackle/post which will make it extra durable.  Just make sure you don't use too much.














If you'd like to see an easy way to strip all the fuzz off the peacock herl see this post:  http://mytroutfly.blogspot.com/2013/07/stripping-peacock-herl-easy-way.html

And here is how I dye the stripped peacock herl:  http://mytroutfly.blogspot.com/2013/07/dyeing-your-own-fly-tying-materials-in.html

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Zonker strip sculpin


Materials needed:
Hook:  Any standard 3x long streamer hook.  Size's #12-2.
Weight:  Lead, or lead-free wire, and a cone head bead.
Thread:  Gel spun thread.  I'm using white, but any color could be used.
Tail:  Olive midge flash/olive zonker strip.
Body:  Olive Senyo's laser dubbing, zonker strip, and red flash.
Head/collar:  Spun and trimmed olive deer body hair.

Start by putting your bead on your hook.











Wrap some weighted wire around the hook shank.  Leave some room between the bead and the hook bend as shown.










Secure the wraps to the shank with some thread wraps across the wire wraps.  Apply a drop of zap-a-gap or super glue.









Tie in 5 or so strands of olive midge flash.











Fold back the butt ends of midge flash and tie those in as well.











Trim the flash so it's about the length of the hook shank.











Measure your zonker so that it equals one hook shank.  Separate the hair on the strip of leather at your tie in point so you don't trap any fibers.

Wetting your fingers makes separating the hair much easier.






Tie in the zonker strip at your tie in point with 3-5 tight thread wraps.











Pull back the front part of the zonker strip, and wrap 3 tight wraps of thread in front of the zonker strip around the hook shank only.  This will lock it in place.








Create a dubbing loop with your olive Senyo's laser dubbing.















Twist, and brush out the fibers.
















Wrap your dubbing loop forward to build the under-body.











Tie in some red flash on the under side of the hook shank.
























Fold the zonker strip over the dubbed body, and separate the fur at your tie in point just in front of the dubbed body.










Secure the zonker strip to the hook shank with 3-5 tight wraps.










Trim the butt end of the zonker strip, and wrap 5 or so more tight wraps to ensure the zonker strip will not move.  You can apply some zap-a-gap to the tie in point as well.





















Cut, clean, and stack a clump of deer body hair.  Put the clump on a 45 degree angle from the hook shank, and the tips of hair pointing to the rear of the hook.  Put one loose wrap over the clump and hook shank, then pull tight.  The deer hair will flare out.  Make 2 more tight wraps through the butt ends and the hair should "spin" around the hook shank somewhat evenly.

Don't be afraid to use your thumb nail to get the hair where you want it.

Cut and clean another clump of hair.  No need to stack the hair, just cut the tips off leaving you with a one inch or so clump of deer hair.

Do the same as the steps above to spin the hair.






Keep spinning hair until its tight enough to hold your bead tightly in place.

It took 3 big clumps (larger than a #2 pencil) to complete this head.






















Now, carefully trim a tapered head, leaving the tips of deer hair as a collar.











...A little at a time....

Be sure to stop after every trim and take a look at the fly to make sure you don't trim too much.









When you get it looking pretty good, stop.

At this point, you can whip finish just behind the bead.

Apply a one drop of zap-a-gap by placing your fly vertically in your vice with the bead at the top.  Put the drop on the hook eye, and let it run into the inside of the bead.