Two-bit hooker

Materials needed:
Hook:  Standard wet or dry fly hook, sizes #18-22.
Beads:  Two tungsten beads.  One black, and one olive. I am using 1.5mm beads for my size #20 hook
Thread:  Olive 8/0 UNI thread.
Tail:  Hungarian partridge dyed olive.  Olive mallard flank, or olive hackle could also be used.
Body:  Stripped peacock herl dyed olive.
Flash:  Small pearl flat tinsel.
Legs:  Hungarian partridge dyed olive. Olive mallard flank, or olive hackle could also be used.

This is an excellent fly.  I use it to imitate small baetis nymphs.  It can be tied in a variety of colors.  It sinks fast thanks to the two tungsten beads, while still keeping a small profile.  I usually tie them in the size #18-22 range with size #20 being my favorite.  You can also tie this fly with two black beads, and just wrap olive dubbing over the rear most bead.

Place your beads on your hook.  The small end on the black bead should face the hook eye, and the small end of the olive bead should face the hook bend, leaving the larger diameter holes touching each other.

Start your thread behind the beads, and wrap back to the end of the hook shank.

Tie in your tail.  It should equal about the length of the hook shank.

Trim the tail fibers from the feather.  The butt ends should reach the beads.

Don't wrap your thread forward yet.

Tie in your piece of olive peacock herl.  Wrap your thread forward, covering the butt ends of your tail, and peacock herl.

Soak your herl in water before you tie it in.  This will make it easier to work with.







Wrap your peacock herl forward, tie it off, and trim the butt end.

Tie in your piece of pearl tinsel just behind the olive bead.

Wrap your thread diagonally over the olive bead leaving your thread between the two beads.

 Tie in your legs.

Trim the butt ends of the legs.

Fold your tinsel over the olive bead, tie it off, and trim the butt end as close as possible.

Whip finish.

I apply some UV resin to the body, and over the flash back to improve durability.